Gennaker(Asymetric spinaker) Furler/Roller

Which stuff works - and where to get it..
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Gennaker(Asymetric spinaker) Furler/Roller

Post by Lars » Wed Jan 16, 2008 10:23 am

I sail my D34P singlehanded, and I use a wide head Gennaker(asymetric spinaker) at 170-90 degrees wind angle.
2007 I tried a gennaker rollingsystem; Rollgen, and it worked.
I now can have my gennaker set at the same time as the genua.
90 degree and smaller I use the genua, but with wider angle, the genua roles in and the gennaker roles out--Its great

When mounting it on top of the mast above the forestay-you must have 1-1,5 dm free space from forestay to enable rolling out/in. I added a long schackel.

please note to follow the instructions exactly! :lol:
ps singlehanded = my wife an myself ds
Last edited by Lars on Thu Feb 14, 2008 9:38 am, edited 5 times in total.

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Post by Maatskip » Fri Jan 18, 2008 9:51 am

Looks good, I also ordered a gennaker with furler, I'll check with my sailmaker which system he exactly is going to use.
Maatskip" - NED 7605
Dufour 34 Performance

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Furler - cruising chute

Post by barry_n_janet » Fri Feb 15, 2008 7:07 pm

Hi Guys

Does anyone fly a conventional spinnaker or chute from the mast head instead of from the normal point 1.5m below?

I ask because my chute is a little too big but fits perfectly from the mast head. I've only hoisted it inside a marina on a still day just to try it. I wonder about abraision.

Any comments welcomed.
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Post by saralu » Fri Mar 07, 2008 2:24 pm

I normaly fly a spy and a gennaker from the mast head.

My boat is a 44 performance.
Fair Winds

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Post by steve johnston » Sat Mar 08, 2008 1:36 pm

Are any users leaving the system rigged all the time? ie leaving the stay up with gennaker furled.

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Post by TimOnders » Mon Mar 10, 2008 4:53 am

We don't have a furler for our asymmetric, but we do fly it from the mast head.

If you fly from the mast head, you'll need to make a couple of modifications to the mast head box.

First, upgrade the sheaves. The white delrin sheaves Dufour uses are attacked by UV, and will eventually break along the edges. Once they have some notches, the halyard will catch between the sheave and the box. Upgrade to either black delrin or aluminum.

Secondly, you'll need to shim the sheaves slightly. There's not a lot of space in the box, but there is enough that the side loads on the spinnaker can get the halyard caught between the sheave and the box wall (the little divider flexes a bit, which exacerbates the problem. If the halyard jams, it's quite a job to get it out. It usually requires hammering out the pin and levering out the sheave with a long screwdriver.

For this reason, I'm very glad we have a sock on the spinnaker (I guess a furler would work as well). There's nothing quite as unnerving as having a spinnaker stuck up when the wind starts to pick up (or you need to turn upwind).

Tim Onders
s/v Frog Prints
2003 D34 #057
Seattle, WA

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